surfing big waves
I tried surfing some big waves last friday. I was not qualified. I could barely get out past the break. Huge rip current, so that sucked too.
I did manage to actually "surf" though, cuz the wave had so much energy I couldn't really screw it up. Once I hit someone (sort of, I ended up pushing their board away), because the wave took me with it, even though I wasn't trying to catch it.
Earlier in the week was awesome, we saw dolphins out in the water surfing with us. That was really cool, I spent some time just watching them, instead of trying to surf.
2 comments:
Did you see the waves this weekend? I understand they were over 20 ft tall?
I was surfing them in the morning so it was a lot lower. At sunset, they were not 20ft, but they were to large for me. At least 8ft? I saw some cool videos of the surf competition, those waves were dangerous. I heard a young body surfer
died. http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-beaches25-2009jul25,0,3538892.story
Turns out that we had a great white shark out there with us on Friday.
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